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I don't have the option "Bottom Interface Spacing", where can i find them?

I was SO frustrated and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't print anything, then saw the part where you said you turned up the "power" percentage - that was my breakthrough! I had to turn it all the way up to 100 and also turn the speed down for my project but it worked beautifully! Thanks for posting, you don't know how helpful this video was for me!

Seems like Bambu is like iphones - everyone says that they have features that existed on other printers before

i love my A1 ❤

I don't know what's going on with mine cause I done everything right but my video isn't showing up after I've exported it over to RUclips

i just bought it and its absolute and total dog shit

Thank you for sharing, i've been pulling my hair out trying to get nice clean break-away tree supports. Do you happen to have updated settings for Orca Slicer 2.1.1 ? Thanks!

PLA CF might seem nice, and it is when it comes to the matte finish, although it is very weak with practically no advantage over PLA , and the abrasive properties of it can wear down your ams over time for no gain. If you like the finish, I reccomend PLA matte, if you want stronger prints use PLA+ or PETG, both are stronger than most PLA CFs. (If you want a really tough filament use PA6-CF, where the properties of CF are really useful)

The best drying filament inside whichever designed container requires air to absorb water inside the filament. This is done by heating the air & filament to make the air more attracting. This condition mostly occurs on the outermost filament winding and especially the unwrapped portion. The optimum designed dryer would have heated air circling the filament with cool plate. The cool plate would condense the vapor to water and drain it. This device would be cost prohibited and, in some filament types, unnecessary, even harmful (too brittle). The best filament storge is sealing it in a container while still warm. Include dry packs and vacuumed with a humidity measuring device or strip.

Filament drying experiment. Place a spool of filament in a theoretical air sealed box along with a thermometer & hygrometer at room temperature. Now, heat the air/filament to 150 deg F. Read the hygrometer. Now, let the filament cool down to room temperature without opening the box. See the hygrometer reading return to similar room temp humidity? The RH went down when heated and returned when cooled. Any loss of water in the air is due to it now being more in the filament. Run the save experiment with dry packs instead of filament, and the air RH should be lower because the packs are designed to hold more water than air. Same goes for types of filament holding more water than other's.

Drying filament is about relative humidity within a given space. Relative humidity is about temperature. The higher the temperature, the more humidity air can hold and vice versa. Air conditioners control humidity by lowering air temperature which lowers the amount of actual humidity the air can hold. A/C's condense the air's above 100% humidity... as does a glass of cold beverage. Heated air can hold more humidity than room air, which is how we dry our clothes. Now, what would happen if you turned the clothes dryer on and left the door wide open (I mean, besides clothes falling out)? It takes longer to dry your clothes, right? Well, putting a gap in a filament dryer's lid has the same effect as well as making the heater work harder to heat the new air/humidity coming in while the heated air leaves.

Huh? Sorry, but I have to say to anyone watching this channel's suggestions about drying filament ... follow the mfg instructions. Don't follow this channels advice. I'll explain the effects of "dryer" volume by asking to run an experiment. You'll need a plastic bag, 2 paper towels and a room. Wet the 2 paper towels under a faucet until soaked. Squeeze out excess water and place 1 towel into the plastic bag. Close the bag. Leave the 2nd paper towel next to it on a dinner plate. Check both paper towels for wetness in 3 hours. You are likely to find the towel inside the bag is wetter. Both were drying in equal air temps, showing that a larger volume enclosure could hold more water vapor. Room relativity changed little while the bag's relative humidity soared. Maybe to 99% RH.

Why Isn't this standard?

So frustrating. i plugged my mouse and keyboard into the monitor. plugged in my laptop to type c, DP is connected to PC. set the KVM wizard up. it works perfect with the laptop, but the damn mouse and KB wont work with the PC.

I tried this. Supports are COMPLETELY fused to the part and cannot be removed.... there goes a 26 hour print.

0:38 - The Amazon knife...still kicking?

thats cool that you have an etsy store

Nice, love it!

Ankermake M5C no levening

I just tried to set mines up and all it does is beep giving a shit down due to possible overheating I checked the voltage I’m at 115v I’m grounded directly into wall

My benchy won't stick to the bed any tips

I have a p1p and the Prusa mk3s+ and even though the p1p is far faster I still prefer the mk3 the reliability it just unmatched in my opinion.

You can do a stencil to do this letters work bettter and faster. Just add a square or use Corel Draw to make a perfect shape

My Discord opens even with this setting off and with it turned off in the Windows start up menu. Had issues with it continuously updating on start up, then loading on start up, not can't get it to stop opening on start up. Discord acting more like Malware these days.

I agree with the other comments below, you do a great job of clearly and squarely explaining things, but without skipping over important points. Thanks a lot. Quick question from a total newbie: if the top layer(s) are all white, why would there need to be more than a single filament change, from red to white as the progress moves upward?

By far my best printing material in the X1C. The finish and quality has been the best

Have you considered removing the little screws holding the threaded insert to the base plate and twisting the piece up then connecting it back to the base plate

Pretty aure the only reason they do that is because they give the bare minimum in sample filament

I'm sorry to say,but after looking for revieuws due the fact my laser stopped burning after two times using,MANY people are having the same problem.The problem is that although the red and blue are flickering,the laserbeam itself doesn't work anymore. It runs the patern,but it doesn't burn.After contacting the company,they've said that the printboard of the laser,(NOT the motherboard),is broken. Now,after two months i still didn't receive a new one although it's still under garanty. To be clear,it's not a detriment towards the company,only putting out facts.

Im buying an Ender 3 v3 to make little things for my kids this helped a lot thank you

this video was very helpful, thanks

Hi im using the HS-PLA for the first time on my P1S. What settings are you using on that?

short , to the point , and easy to understand !!! kudo's . one more subscriber thnx

I see a fish wizard logo!

Its good to show us how ti looks after print too

Ok

Yes. woth it. You buy the upgrade kit, slap it on your MK4, and boom, you've got an MK4S. It costs $99, so it’s basically free 😀. And they just released an app for everyone too

Just printed my first self supported model on my A1, and the supports worked and came off perfectly. Huge thanks to the person who made the profile and you for making this video to get the word out.

Sunlu works great with my A1m, 36$ canadian for two rolls on Amazon.

From my limited experience, Sunlu seems to be a premium filament. Great spools too. And word on the street is they also manufacture Bambu Labs filament.

Thanks bro you gave me really good basics!

How do i verify my RUclips account?

If you live in Australia, the Jaycar tri-colour is also an unmissable filament

Thanks so much I've had mine for a long time but recently it started hitting the nozzle on infill - even gyro so I'm hoping this helps to fix that.

damn 14k subs and 400 views on the first day the youtube algorithm is a bitch sometimes

Thanks for the video. Very nice step by step. Issue: When importing G-Code file into Orca Slicer I sometimes fine that it will successfully import but, I cannot find the file to print. It does not show up under the "File Name" list. This seems to happen most often on larger objects but not always. What am I missing?

Pretty sweet

Hey I might be giving away an idea here but looking at the disc at 4:50 you could print a GOBO for photography light fixtures!

I have been using Sunlu's black aPLA for about 4 months now. My only complaint is i cant get it in a 3kg spool and that it hates my smooth glass bed, the textured glass works fine. aPLA is their anti-string PLA and it works great even in my kobra max with a volcano nozzle

Hope things work out :D